3-25-11

Fun small leftovers. East swell, light offshore and sunny.

Nice left.

3-24-11

With the 1st full day of spring we saw snow mixing to freezing rain, and cold wind. Typical New England. All week it was cold, and wet, just an awful way to start spring. However with this cold weather there was a East/North East swell building. With the swell direction shifting ever so slightly to the East, and then East/South East at the end of the week, we actually had some fun, rideable waves. East swells are the trickiest to forecast. Right place at the right time! 

The left working. Goofy foot's dream with an East swell. The right is not too bad either.

Sand bottom point.

  

3-19-11

Early Saturday morning. Small SW swell leftovers, no wind, and clearing skies. Some bigger chest high sets early but it was fading fast, and the wind came up around 10am. Glad to get out and get a few early, as it was junk the rest of the day. 


Early Morning Glass

3-17-11

Thank you St. Patrick! I'm starting to think that we always have waves on St. Patty's Day. A small south swell filled in over night. An early foggy session with offshore wind, but there was still some morning sickness on the surf. A epic afternoon, it really turned on with overhead sets, light offshore wind, bright sunshine, and airtemps in the mid 50s. An after work session had some onshore wind and funky rips, but still some great rides. Awesome day.

NM about to drop in on a left.

3-14-11

Making the most of it, is what its about as a surfer on the Right Coast. Why not paddle out if it's rideable? Too many people drive around, check many different spots, and then do not even bother to paddle out at all. With the right board, almost any wave can be fun. Monday morning leftovers, offshore wind, chest high sets, and fast hollow waves. 

The Left.

 The Right.

3-13-11

Happy Daylight Savings! Cheers to bringing back the post work surf sessions! Had some left over South West wind swell. The wind was suppose to go offshore, but never did. It was sideshore, and then came back onshore, so it never got as good as it could have. The warm air is starting to bring out more surfers, but its still not even close to crowded yet.

 Sandbars are starting to change with the season.

3-11-11

A nice summer-type of system pushed its way through on Friday. Very foggy, warm air temps up into the 50s. Lite onshore wind, but the surf was still rideable and fun, with head high sets. It's best to always surf with someone else, especially on days like today, were you can dissapear into the fog. 

3-8-11

After not surfing for a week, it was great to get back in the water. A low pressure system slid off the east coast and started to track its way North. It brought a large south swell on Monday but the wind was on it pretty bad. Rhode Island got good Monday afternoon as the wind clocked around to from the South East, to North. Tuesday at dawn was sick. With a rising tide and a fading swell, the afternoon had some small leftovers as well. More waves on tap for the weekend!

A pulled back view of the left.



The left, overhead and firing in the land of Fishermen



Afternoon had smaller waves, but great shape, bright sun, and crystal clear water. 

3-1-11

March started out right! With some strong onshore winds and building surf on Monday, the forecast was set to improve for Tuesday. The wind went hard offshore on Monday night, giving way to some chest to head high waves on Tuesday morning. High tide made it less than ideal, and if the wind had been lighter, waves would have been bigger, but every day now we are seeing more and more daylight time, and thats always a good thing.

Windswell fun.

Little grinder...

German Bird Patrol...

2-27-11

Super small leftovers from yesterday. Funny how it can be so big one day, and then it goes almost flat overnight, ahhh the east coast...After a huge Nantucket Whaler High School Hockey playoff win, a little swell was still hitting the beach, and the wind was offshore. Why not get some? 

A fellow Islander paddling for it...

2-26-11

Big winter south swell. Very windy the day before brought lots of rain to the Island, and snow to the mountains of New England. Winds started off light offshore, but then increased to hard side shore...lots of lookers, only a few actually paddled out and tried to get a couple. Plenty of closeouts, double overhead sets, and a vicious side shore current. Nothing about this day was easy.  

2-22-11

A small, but fun session today. A little South swell was trying its best to battle a long fetch of North West winds. One of those days that looks flat until a nice set comes through. Bright sunshine and some fast waist+ high waves. Always good to get wet. Sand bars are so good right now. Stoked.

2-19-11

As the front pushed through over night, it left a good sized South West swell in the water. With some morning sickness, and offshore incresing throughout the day, it made for some great rides over two sessions. The wind picked up HARD in the afternoon, as gusts hit 73 mph in Worcester, MA. Still a very fun day. 

 AM Session.

 PM Session.

2-15-11

One of the best days of the year so far. Just a day when it all comes together. A day where you say to yourself, "If I were to travel and get waves like this, I would be stoked." To get a day like that at home is special. Couple feet overhead, sunny, offshore wind, two other people out. So what if the wind chill was 15⁰. For winter this day was epic. Barrels. Stuff Session. Stuffaluffagus out there.  A great day to go surfing.

AM Session. Perfect Right.

PM Session. Gutter Nuggs.

PM Session. Some nice lefts were coming in too.

2-13-11

Sunday Funday! With some chest to head high waves, light offshores and sunny skies, why not go surfing? The rights on this sand bar, were almost like a mini sand bottom point due to the South West direction in the swell. Wicked fun morning until the wind switched to onshore, and it got cloudy. Glad I got up early.

Air temp was cold, so I drove the Cruiser out to cut down on the walk. Fun Rights.

2-10-11

Another small West/South West wind swell that filled in midweek. A great sand bar has formed and it's been working with waves of all sizes. These small waist high waves would jack up on the sand bar and run fast down the line, not too many closeouts and lots of pumping to make sections. The rights were fun!! For the size, the waves had awesome shape. 

  

2-7-11

The waves continued to pulse through Monday. With no wind and still a small South/South West swell still in the water, this low tide sand bar was gang busters! Chest high oil glass peelers, bright sunshine, and air temps toping out at 50! Reminded me of a small swell day in California, except our water is still freezing and there was no one else surfing. 

2-6-11

Superbowl Sunday!

There always seems to be waves on Superbowl Sunday. Good sized South West wind swell. Had to wait for the wind to calm down and come around from side shore to more offshore. Clean overhead waves with sunny skies. We had a few takers on this nice warm(for February) afternoon. If you look closely at the picture you can see someone making the drop.  

2-3-11

Just after a week after our last Nor'Easter, we had another one charge up the coast. A very active winter weather pattern has set in. While other parts of the North East have seen feet of snow, we mostly get rain or a frozen mix of some kind on Nantucket. Bad for the kids because they don't have the snow days that eveyone else seems to be getting, but at least they will be out of school before July. Another plus is that people don't have to shovel. The ocean water staying in the mid 30s keeps our air temps at about the same, leaving most precipitation to fall as rain, and not snow. Storms usually mean one thing for surfers...WAVES.

Overhead Perfection.

1-28-11

Leftovers after the EPIC day yesterday. Still head high + and glassy with no wind. Another really fun day of waves.

1-27-11

EPIC. Classic Nor'Easter surf. Howling wind with a little snow over night. Storm brought some solid waves in the 6-9 ft. range. Barrels up and down the beach. Pretty much, as good as it gets out here, for anytime of year. Winter has far less people, and can offer a unique experience. Surfing in a blizzard...why not?

A Friend.  

1-26-11

A small South swell snuck in overnight. Not really forecasted, but the buoys were showing a little somthing. Got on it early for dawn patrol, and then again later in the day. Living on the east coast you never know when the next good swell is going to come and it can go flat for weeks at a time. When there are waves, even if it's not perfect, it's best to go paddle out.  

AM Session.  

PM Session

 

1-22-11

Another fun West/SouthWest wind swell in the chest high range. Water temp in the upper 30s, air was in the low 40s. Started out with offshore winds, giving way to glassy conditions. Surfed for 4 hours non-stop on this nice Saturday morning. 

1-19-11

Having gone almost a week with out waves, it was nice to get back in the water. Overhaed glassy waves, with a warm air temp in the low 40s. Almost felt a little like summer out there with the grey haze. Putting your face in the freezing water ended those thoughts pretty quickly.

1-13-11

Solid day of surf. Overhead, clean, sunny, cold. Had some great rides over 2 sessions. Putting on a cold, wet, winter wetsuit is awful, but waves like this make it worth it.

1-10-11

Still some waist high leftovers. Sunny, small, clean and fun little waves.

1-9-11

New South West wind swell filled in overnight. Very fun waves with offshore wind and sunny skies. Sunday Funday.

1-8-11

Small, East Ground Swell. Glassy. 2-4 ft waves with some friends on a Saturday afternoon in January.

Nantucket

2011

It's been a great start to 2011. Getting on this blog a little late. Starting a new year I wanted to document every surf session, seeing how they can all start to blend together. With a new board under the tree, this year has started off right. First session was rad. Really like how the new board goes in small surf. Little WSW wind swell, fun waist to chest lines, and empty.


1-5-11 Nantucket